In the last four months I’ve traveled to South Africa, purchased a Tuflite Santa Cruz board, skied in Tahoe, broken-in my new job, been engaged to Hayley, and played a ridiculous amount of Xbox 360.
The surf this morning was much bigger than surfshot.com said. They said knee high for mission beach, but it was really over head and heavy. Weird, maybe they were trying to scare everyone off? It worked, and I had a blast.
The only thing the fish is good for is small waves and making it easier for me to carve with the shortboard. Today I took out the shortboard and while the first half hour was just that uncomfortable adjustment period, the rest was a lot better. Mission Beach was definitely the place to be today. Check plus.
Went out last friday by the roller coaster. It was totally closed out, but fun for the hour to surf during the sunset. The thunderhead clouds painted the sky in every direction and I was a little scared they might start throwing lightning bolts at me. Luckily there was no activity during my session.
Today after work I raced over to PB Pier to catch the remaining surf of the day. It was great! A little crowded, but there was enough to go around. The ocean glassed over before I got there, so I was pleasantly surprised by what was supposed to be completely-blown-out surf.
Last night, I drove out to Belmont park to catch a few waves before the earlier sunset. All day, I was looking at surf reports online, enthralled by the combination of size and glassy texture that I was missing. Stupidly I chose the spot right in front of Belmont park, where every wave closes out at low-mid tide on long period swells, instead of the Jetty which was probably the right choice. The waves were still fun, but I could have been surfing a much better break.
I woke up in pitch-black this morning and decided that it was probably worth it to go out for a morning surf. I decided to try north Mission Beach since that usually handles these swells better than the coaster. Of course I was short on time, so I just parked and paddled out. Again it was sub-par, although a little better than last night. I got a few open shoulder high waves to mess around on, but most of the waves closed out or were too small to ride. At least it was like surfing on glass.
For about an hour yesterday I surfed down at the coaster. When I first got out, it was great. The sun shined through the thick fog resulting in a creepy and surreal effect on the water. The waves were anywhere from knee to shoulder high; the bigger ones holding too much power and just closing out. It was fun though, wish I had time to go this morning.