I’ve surfed 8 days in a row, ending Wednesday. The winter consistency finally arrived. Not a day went by without head high waves and I’m exhausted. My whole body feels like I’ve been through a car accident. My arms and legs hurt, I get constant headaches and my digestive system is off. It’s really a good thing the last two days were flat because I needed the break. The surf comes in “waves” though… the next week straight is not supposed to pick up much. “Bummer”
So the new job at http://www.windriver.com/ rules. I’m working on some pretty exciting technology and I definitely feel like I’m getting the most out of my college degree. The people are cool, the perks are great and I’m a happy man.
The surf has been insane lately. Here’s a picture I took at Torrey Pines last week. Everyone and their mother was getting barrels.
Last night, hunger and cats woke me up around 2:30. I walked around, poured a bowl of cereal, then kicked the cats out and tried to get back to bed. Falling asleep again was next to impossible since I couldn’t find a comfortable spot. So after waking Hayley up on accident, I decided to go out to the couch and I was out immediately. I awoke at 5:30 again to an accident on the freeway. The horn was going off for about twenty minutes, but I finally feel asleep for another couple hours.
So I was a little tired. I called Greg at 9 and we were at Torrey Pines around 10. I woke up right away, so stoked when I saw that it was feeling the south swell. We stayed there for about an hour, then decided to head up north to 12th street because the low tide was really affecting the shape. It was just steep drops followed by a pounding.
Del Mar’s waves surpassed my expectations. Mellow, but open waves were peeling in both directions, breaking pretty far out. While the wind was still calm, the waves were totally awesome. We got out when it junked out. Awesome day.